The idea for the Quobba
trip originated about 12 months ago when the TV program ‘Postcards WA’
featured Quobba Station in one of their segments. Some members mentioned
that they had been through the area but I could not find anyone who had
stayed there. So plans were begun to run a trip. These plans soon extended
to include the nearby Kennedy Ranges and Mt Augustus. Neither of which I had
ever visited. July was chosen because of the cooler, but fine, weather and
it also encompassed the school holidays allowing more members to take the
opportunity of joining in.
The trip proved popular and eventually I had to stop taking names after I
had a convoy of 13 vehicles. Those that have run extended trips appreciate
that this number of vehicles can prove a nightmare to organize camping
locations and also present difficulties in communication when the convoy
spreads out. It also increases the chances of delays due to mechanical
failures.
As the date got nearer couple of members withdrew for various reasons and
some where to join up with the trip at later stages. So, on Saturday July 3,
The Archers, Vasiles, McCarthys, Keith, Michael, David, Chris, Daniel, Glenn
met at Ginger’s Roadhouse, UpperSwan for a respectable departure time of
8:00am. With everyone present and on time, we set off with a convoy of 7
vehicles along the Great Northern Highway eventually travelling the Brand
Highway heading for Geraldton. We stopped at Badgingarra for morning tea and
decided to stop at Dongarra for lunch. When we reached Geraldton the convoy
broke up to re-fuel at various service stations, before all meeting up at
the 440 Roadhouse at about 2:30pm.
It was getting later than we anticipated so we decided to head for the
Nerren Nerren road side stop instead of the planned stop at Gladstone Beach.
Nerren Nerren Roadside Stop is a large camping area with toilets, water and
solar lighting. Despite the size of the area, the camp ground was quite
full. However we managed to find a suitable area in the bush land behind the
main cleared area. The night was very cold and we had to forego building a
fire because the local area had been stripped of any descent fire wood.
The next morning we set off at 8:00am, refueling at the Overlander and
eventually arriving at Carnarvon before mid-day. A top up of all tanks for
our Quobba stay before heading to the Gascoyne River Bridge where we found a
suitable place for lunch. We were supposed to meet up with Terry, Theresa,
Liam and Kelly in Carnarvon but failed to locate them by VHF or mobile. So I
suspected they had already departed for Quobba. Sure enough we found them
already set up near the Homestead. Malcolm, Trish and son Ben had also
arrived earlier and had their tent nestled amongst the bushes. Ben was
staying at Red Bluff but came down to the homestead to visit his parents for
the night.
There was plenty of space for everyone to set up camp to their individual
needs, with the guys travelling alone choosing to set up tents in one
particular area which was soon named Brokeback Corner.
Quobba camp ground was a pleasant surprise with large open areas of
semi-grassed level ground with the occasional sprinkling of coastal bushes
to break the breeze. There was a newly renovated ablutions block, located
near the homestead, which was within ‘prolonged’ walking distance from the
camp. A solar water system provided good hot showers, depending on what time
of the day you showered. It was soon worked out that it was best to shower
late evening or early morning when the electric boosters took over the water
heating.
Monday was spent fishing at various locations along the Quobba coast with
varying success stories. Michael was given a few introductory lessons from
several of the guys to initiate him into the fishing fraternity. The lessons
paid off with his first catch. Of more interest than the fishing was the
whale activity just off shore. Humpback whales were frequently seen leaping
out of the water while migrating north.
Richard and Helen arrived Monday afternoon after driving all day from Perth.
They soon settled down to enjoy happy hour and a moderate but welcome camp
fire.
On Tuesday we headed in convoy for a tour of the 60 kilometres of coastline
between Quobba and Gnarloo. Morning tea was held at Red Bluff where we found
the camp site full . However the location was a wonderful secluded bay with
mainly reef beachs. The big attraction for the surfers was the amazing
continuously rolling surf just off the reef. We headed for Gnarloo for
lunch, and although the Gnarloo property had some wonderful coast line, the
restriction on costal access for visitors made it difficult to locate
somewhere for all to stop for a break. There was no access to beach areas
and insufficient space at beach car parks which was already taken up by
others; this lead to our convoy breaking up into groups and having lunch in
various locations along the coast line. After lunch we began heading back to
Quobba in groups, each exploring different locations along the way. Once
back into Quobba territory, leaving the Gnarloo restrictions behind, we
explored the coast further finding some amazing beach and cliff edge
scenery.
Wednesday was a relatively easy day with most of the party travelling to
Carnarvon for lunch at a Banana Plantation owned by Jason’s cousin. On the
return drive to Quobba some checked out the Bibbabarra artesian bore which
expels water from the ground which is too hot to touch. We then went on to
the Quobba blow holes. The blow holes where in full flight with water
shooting 6 to 10 metres high. The whales were also putting on an aerial
display out from the blow holes. The sea was a hive of activity with flocks
of sea birds chasing schools of fish skating the surface.
On Thursday most of the party did their own thing, fishing, site seeing or
just relaxing. A weather front had come in producing some drizzle and
overcast conditions. However, during our stay at Quobba the weather was
generally fine. The breeze changed direction over the 5 nights which caused
some confusion as to which side of the camp fire to sit. During the night
the wind increased and by the early hours of the morning had turned into a
gale. Jane commented that having spent several years in Port Hedland this
wind was comparable to any cyclone. With little protection from the wind
most people had to make some attempt to batten down tents or dismantle camp
and seek refuge in vehicles. Terry, not wanting to disturb his family while
they attempted to sleep through the storm, improvised by attaching a snatch
strap between his car and Jayco. This was to maneuver the camper so it
didn’t cop the wind side-on. Friday morning was ‘move-on’ day so needless to
say, camps were packed up very quickly in the difficult conditions.
It was arranged that everyone make their own way from Quobba to Carnarvon
for ref-fueling and re-stocking of food supplies before meeting at the BP
Roadhouse at 11:00am.
Richard and Helen departed for Perth because Helen was not feeling 100%.
They were substituted by Guy and Wendy who arrived from Perth after missing
the first week due to work commitments. The club’s new sat phone got its
first use the evening prior when Guy phoned from the Overlander to organize
a meeting point.
Once re-stocked with the essentials of camping life (Chocolate, wine, beer,
bread and milk) the convoy headed east along the Carnarvon-Gascoyne Road.
Rocky Pool was just a half hours drive from Caranarvon where we stopped for
Lunch. Rocky Pool was originally intended to be our camping spot for the
previous night. However; the area has been taken over by the Water
Corporation who no longer permit camping in the area. Which is why we
decided to have the additional night at Quobba and then head directly to
Bidgemia Station near Gascoyne Junction.
We arrived at Bidgemia Station by mid-afternoon. The camping area surrounded
a hay shed and renovated shearer’s quarters which are now used for tourist
accommodation. There was a camper’s kitchen, toilets and showers. Hot water
was supplied by way of water being fed through steel drums over a log fire.
A simple but very effective way of supplying ample hot water for everyone to
shower. Being situated on the edge of the Gascoyne River, there was ample
dead wood in the river bed to make healthy camp fires each night. A chat
with the owner of Bidgemia, Lachlan McTaggart , who is also the shire Deputy
President, revealed a station track that headed towards the Kennedy Ranges,
cutting off about 10km from the main road. Lachlan also gave directions on
accessing the western side of the Ranges which is not publicized like the
eastern ‘tourist’ side.
On Saturday, David, Chris, Michael, Daniel and Liam woke early in order to
drive to the Kennedy Ranges and take photos of the hills during sunrise. The
rest of us got up at a more respectable hour and headed for the Eastern Side
of the Ranges via the station track which crossed the Gascoyne and Lyons
Rivers. We visited the various gorges and the day was spent climbing the
rock face and taking in the magnificent views. Fortunately we did not have
to camp at Kennedy Ranges because we found that most of the camping ground
at Temple Gorge was full due to the Western Australia 4WD Club having 11
vehicles with camper trailers settled in. Karen and Jane had a chat to their
members while the rest of us negotiated Temple Gorge.
The following day (Sunday) some decided to have a day exploring the river
bed at Bidgemia while the remainder headed for the un-publicized tracks on
the Western side of the Kennedy Ranges. Keith took the opportunity to be
Martin’s navigator because Karen decided to stay at the camp. The tag-alongers
included Jason, Jane, Michael, David, Guy and Wendy. Despite not being
referenced by DEC or sign-posted from the main road, the track exploring the
western side does have an information board erected near an abandoned
homestead prior to the track crossing the Gascoyne River. After exploring
the ruins of the homestead we proceeded across a wide expanse of the
Gascoyne River which leads onto a hill called ‘Khyber Pass’. The terrain
here was sparse and rocky and named after the similar barren landscape
between Pakistan and Afganistan. However, once over the hill and heading
towards the Ranges the landscape changed dramatically with western edge of
the ranges providing the occasional sheltered oasis of river gums and
running creeks. We discovered some exceptional camping spots that were duly
recorded on Oziexplorer for future trips. Wildlife and livestock were
abundant through the area. Euros (somewhere between a kangaroo and a
wallaby) were running everywhere and some not afraid to stand their ground
on approaching vehicles. We continued on the track until after mid-day when
we decided to have lunch then do an about turn and head back to camp. On the
return leg, we came across the 11 vehicles from the WA 4WD Club who were
heading north with their trailers in tow. Our 5 vehicles had to find safe
ground to pull off the track to allow them to pass. Upon arrival at Gascoyne
Junction we found most of our remaining party having a Sunday Session at the
Gascoyne Junction Hotel. There was no arm twisting needed for us all to join
them in a ‘responsible’ drink before heading back to Bidgemia.
Sam and Pasc were with those that had stayed behind at Bidgemia. This is
their account of what they got up to while the rest of us explored the
western side of the range.
Woke up to a beautiful morning. The sun was shining and the birds were
singing. Our group stayed back at camp while the breakaway group went to the
west side of the Kennedy Ranges.
We had a leisurely breakfast and then all went for a walk to explore. The
farmer had quite a lot of old machinery around, this included the shearing
shed, old windmills and something that resembled a slaughter house for the
sheep. From old machinery and buildings we walked to the banks of the Lyon
River that runs into the Gascoinge River. It was dry and hasn’t had water in
it for over 18 months. We walked through here and saw many interesting paper
bark trees. We followed a large lizard trail for a while and then lost it.
On the way back to camp we found a dead Wedge Tail Eagle and we were going
to get our forensics experts to investigate what happened to it but we run
out of time. On our way back to camp we walked past an old, huge wood oven
that we presume was used to cook meals for the shearers. From here Kelly and
Locky led us to the farms’ junk yard. We could have spend days here just
fossicking around, they had so much gear from yesteryear to the modern day,
there were old cars, washing machines, bottles, ovens, sewing machines and
much more. We walked back to camp, stoked up the fire and baked bread,
damper, scones and cheeseymite scrolls which were all enjoyed before and
after dinner. What a great relaxing day we had……………Sam and Pasc Vasile.
The following day (Monday) we casually packed up camp for a 9:30am departure
to Mt Augustus. Although gravel with some rocky bits, we found the roads in
the Gascoyne area to be well maintained and free of corrugations. The only
things to watch out for were the occasional dips at creek beds and rivers.
We stopped at Cobra Station early in the afternoon for Lunch. We had all
packed lunch for the trip, so in return for using the camp ground as a lunch
stop we thought it polite to free the historic Cobra Bangemall Inn of its
drumstick icecream supply. The most expensive drumsticks in the state at $5
each. But who can complain when you’re in the middle of no-where.
Theresa kindly offered to make some notes and produced this account of the
days adventure;- Early rise to a brisk, chilly morning. Sam was up in the
dark, getting the fire roaring for the others. 9.30am departure from
Bidgemia Station. To quote Liam : “I hope the next place is as good as this
one!”
About forty minutes along the route we stopped to investigate some
fossilized marine-life, immortalised in rock from 300 million years ago. The
shell fossils in particular were plentiful. The surrounding area must be a
real magnet for geologists
En route the undulating countryside was most attractive, with ubiquitous
sprinklings of white rocks contrasting against the deep reddish brown earth
tones. There was some evidence of rain; puddles scattered here and there;
even a little water in Dairy Creek, but sadly for Sam, no cheese factory!
We stopped for lunch at Cobra Station; namely the Bangemall Historic Inn.
Charles Kingsford Smith had had a significant role to play with the mail run
from Carnarvon to Bangemall.
It was exciting to finally catch the first glimpse of Mt Augustus with all
its interesting colours and textures. The pinks and greens of Albert
Namatjira’s landscape paintings could be found around every turn. After
stopping at Emu Hill Lookout to take a few photos, we ambled along on to our
destination.
Arriving at Mt Augustus Outback Resort around mid-afternoon, we were warmly
greeted and provided with a group area with Mt Augustus as its backdrop, the
changing hues of the sunset enhancing the rock’s beauty.
A husband and wife volunteer couple visited our campfire to tell us all
about the different walks awaiting us the next day.
Hot showers followed by happy hour and camp oven dinners ended another very
pleasant day in the Gascoyne.
As mentioned by Theresa, the colors of Mt Augustus, particularly during late
afternoon where spectacular. The following morning the sun cast a brilliant
red glow over the mountain making the early morning rise out of bed
compulsory to take in the spectacle.
Tuesday at Mt Augustus was Wendy’s turn to make notes;-
This was our explore day of the Mount Augustus Nation Park. Basically we
split into two groups. The Keesings, Michael Gilbert, David Igglesten and
vistor Chris and son Daniel all headed off to climb the summit. The balance
of the less adventurous being the Lehmann’s, Archer’s, Vasile’s, McCarthy’s
, Keith Parker and Glen Bignell opted for the more scenic 40 km loop road
that runs around the base of Mount Augustus.
The climb to the summit takes around 6 hours and can be quite difficult in
several spots. All those that attempted the summit managed to do the return
trip in good time. With the exception of David and Chris who became
separated and Chris ended out having a blow out with his climbing boots,
however they managed to return back to our camp before 5.00 pm.
The scenic road had many stop off points that included some medium walks (2
hours return) and short walks to investigate varying stone structures and
Aboriginal engravings. We had lunch at the parking area for the summit walk
and welcomed the exhausted trackers at the end of the climb.
On the return trip to the camp we stopped to pick up fire wood on the side
of the road to ensure that we had a fire to quell the cold night air. Once
we were back at the camp the fire was cranked up, we had showers and enjoyed
our usual happy hour which extended into the night. Great day had by all.
Guy & Wendy
Once again it was pre-planned not to have to drive too far between camps.
Having been on some trips where it was necessary to rise early and pack
quickly for a long drive I wanted this trip be relaxed and enjoyable.
Therefore, departure from most locations was arranged for 9:30am with about
a 3 hour drive to each location allowing for a stop here and there. The next
camp was Bilung Pool which is located on the Wooramel River crossing on the
Carnarvon – Mullewa Road 275 km south-west of Mt Augustus.
Again, gravel roads were in excellent condition and it was difficult trying
to keep speed down to preserve tyres. We reached Bilung Pool just after
mid-day and found a number of travellers enjoying the location for lunch.
Bilung Pool has a steep gorge wall along the southern edge of the river.
There was water in the lower area of the gorge, and is constantly used by
goats and cattle. Although the pic-nic location was very picturesque, Glenn
was sent further down the river to see if there was a more suitable camping
area. He found a site about a kilometre west of the road which overlooked
the river from above the river gorge. We were all soon set up for an
afternoon of exploring and happy hour camp fire relaxation. The sun and
cloud system put on a spectacular sunset.
The time to relax gave
Glenn the opportunity to put these notes together;-
Another day in paradise – blue skies again! As usual, we all awake to find
Terry around the campfire – does he ever sleep? The sun was about to rise
and show off the Mt Augustus backdrop to this wonderful countryside – what a
view!
Michael decided to kick on up north and visit Karijini and Millstream and
departed at 08:00 in search of new adventure. The rest of us departed in
eight vehicles to “somewhere south” at 09:10 but not before photographing
Chris’s boots which were eloquently placed in the rubbish bin after they
both blew out at the top of Mt Augustus.
South of Landor we stopped for ‘mornos’ at the Gascoyne River crossing where
there was a old 44 gallon drum mounted on a horizontal wire rope and pulley
system across the floodway used to transfer the mail in times of flooding.
At 14:00 we arrive at Bilung Pool and set up camp. Afternoon tea was hot
scones freshly baked by Pasc with jam and cream for all – Yum!!
Everyone set up camp for the night and some minor repairs were undertaken on
trailer wiring for tail lights and brakes which led us into happy hour and
the usual dinner delights for all. Chris, Davis and Daniel went for their
usual nightly walk and bought back photos of our neighbours – goats! Well,
its lights out for all again except for Terry – does he ever sleep?
Camp was dismantled the next morning as we set off for our next destination;
Wooleen Station in the Murchison. Today was Keith’s turn to click the biro
into acto and make some note for the day;-
Left Bilung Pool roadside camp at 9:30am heading for Wooleen Station. Wasn’t
long before we stopped at ET Hooley Stock Route Well No. 19 on the Mullewa –
De Gray Stock Route established in the 1890’s. This is one of 52 wells dug
by hand, being 10.5 metres deep and yielding about 550 litres/hr. This well
has been refurbished and Sam demonstrated its use for us. Shortly after we
crossed the 26th parallel, going south this time, arriving at Murchison
Settlement in time for lunch. This was quite a surprise being a brand new
rammed earth facility due to be officially opened the following day. Pies,
chips, etc were purchased and all drivers had their ‘free’ coffee which
unlike most other offers of this type was a proper cappuccino, flat white,
etc, of your choice. The biggest surprise was the price of fuel……unleaded at
$1.31 compared with the $1.96 at Mt Augustus. We all filled up!
Next stop was our supposed overnight stop at Wooleen Station but the camping
area was minute and doubtful if we could all fit in so an executive decision
was made by our trip leader and so we departed for destinations south. It
had been planned to stop at Ballinyoo Bridge the following night so as it
wasn’t too far we made tracks there. This turned out to be a great decision
as it was a beautiful campsite on the Murchison River and there was actually
clear water in the river! Many took the opportunity to take a bath but it
was pretty cold. Plenty of wood in the area so a camp fire was soon burning
and the usual assortment of camp ovens appeared. It was decided to spend two
nights here as it was such a nice spot.
The next day (Friday) was spent relaxing and taking in the beauty of the
area. Kelly tried her hand at river fishing and before long was pulling in
Perch one after the other. This inspired the other smaller children to dig
out their fishing rods. Before long, Locky and Lani were also pulling up
fish. All the fish, being too small, were released back into the river. The
kids went swimming again as the day grew a little warmer. As the afternoon
progressed several of the guys had a game of bush boule’s. David and Chris
explored the river further up-stream. Keith departed today to head to a
friend’s farm to assist in erecting fences.
We were all treated that evening to a more than healthy share of Terry’s
catch from Steep Point. There were enough Mackerel and Sweet Lip cutlets to
feed an army. Each cooked their fish in a way that they wanted from grilled
to baked. Fresh cooked fish on the last day of a 2 week outback trip… what
more could you ask for? Thanks Terry.
Saturday was the day to head home. So camp was packed up by 8:00am for the
long drive south. Although it took most of the day, the drive via Mullewa,
Mingenew, Three Springs and through Moora on the Midlands Road was very
pleasant with little traffic. After lunch at Moora, we headed to a roadhouse
south of Bindoon where we bid our goodbyes to one and all.
*** Oziexplorer plots of this trip are available from Martin or the Trip
Coordinator ***